Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
